The air filter on a car is usually along a pipe which attaches to the top of an engine. Read an owner's manual to find out what type of air filter is needed with help from a specialist in car restoration in this free video on car maintenance and auto repairs.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Interior Detailing tips
When cleaning carpets and upholstery, start with the driver's area first. It is then more likely that this area will be dry when the customer takes possession of the vehicle.
Clean windows after cleaning everything else inside, thus preventing soiling of the windows while doing the dirty work of cleaning door panels and headliners, et cetera. Do your interior dressing and conditioning after window cleaning so as to avoid tracking dressing onto the windows while wiping them.
When cleaning windows, first lower the windows slightly and clean the top edge of the window pane. Then fully close and clean the remainder of the window.
Be careful not to get any of your favorite interior cleaner on the clear plastic panel that cover the instrument panels. These cleaners can spot or fog the plastic.
In heavy carpet soiling situations or if there has been a spill between the seats, it is often easier to remove the seat completely from the vehicle, allowing excellent access to the soiled area for more thorough cleaning. I have found that, especially in neglected interiors, the time it takes to remove the driver and passenger seats is easily made up by the ease of access to the interior of the vehicle during the heavy cleaning that is necessary in these situations.
Be careful to check for wire harnesses under the seat. These usually come out of the carpeting directly under the seat and simply unplug.
Of course, be sure to re-plug the harnesses and securely re-tighten the seat upon re-installation.
Always rinse mats, carpeting, and upholstery after cleaning them to remove any cleaner residue. This residue will simply attract more dirt if left in the material. That is, the material will stay cleaner longer if rinsed.
Sourece: Automotive Detailing
Clean windows after cleaning everything else inside, thus preventing soiling of the windows while doing the dirty work of cleaning door panels and headliners, et cetera. Do your interior dressing and conditioning after window cleaning so as to avoid tracking dressing onto the windows while wiping them.
When cleaning windows, first lower the windows slightly and clean the top edge of the window pane. Then fully close and clean the remainder of the window.
Be careful not to get any of your favorite interior cleaner on the clear plastic panel that cover the instrument panels. These cleaners can spot or fog the plastic.
In heavy carpet soiling situations or if there has been a spill between the seats, it is often easier to remove the seat completely from the vehicle, allowing excellent access to the soiled area for more thorough cleaning. I have found that, especially in neglected interiors, the time it takes to remove the driver and passenger seats is easily made up by the ease of access to the interior of the vehicle during the heavy cleaning that is necessary in these situations.
Be careful to check for wire harnesses under the seat. These usually come out of the carpeting directly under the seat and simply unplug.
Of course, be sure to re-plug the harnesses and securely re-tighten the seat upon re-installation.
Always rinse mats, carpeting, and upholstery after cleaning them to remove any cleaner residue. This residue will simply attract more dirt if left in the material. That is, the material will stay cleaner longer if rinsed.
Sourece: Automotive Detailing
Sunday, April 5, 2009
How to Clean your Cars Air Filter
Tips & Warnings: 
First, safely remove the air sensor from your car's air intake. 
Next, remove the air filter. 
After that, Spray the filter cleaner on both sides of the air filter. 
Gently wash the air filter with cool water. If the filter is especially dirty, repeat steps 3 and 4 until the filter is clean. 
Once the filter is dry, spray the filter oil on the front side of the air filter and allow it to soak for 20 minutes. Be sure to completely cover the filter with the oil, so that it forms a seal. 
Once the oil has set into the filter, then replace the filter into your car's air intake. Don't forget to reconnect the air sensor.
Source: http://www.ehow.com/video_2039804_clean-cars-air-filter.html
- Do not use blow dryers or heaters to dry the air filter because it may cause damage.
- This cleaning procedure is only for reusable affter-market performance filters. The stock air filter in your car is not meant to be cleaned and re-used.
Step1
First, safely remove the air sensor from your car's air intake.
Step2
Next, remove the air filter.
Step3
After that, Spray the filter cleaner on both sides of the air filter.
Step4
Allow the cleaning fluid to saturate into the air filter for 10 minutes. Step5
Gently wash the air filter with cool water. If the filter is especially dirty, repeat steps 3 and 4 until the filter is clean.
Step6
Allow the filter to completely dry. Step7
Once the filter is dry, spray the filter oil on the front side of the air filter and allow it to soak for 20 minutes. Be sure to completely cover the filter with the oil, so that it forms a seal.
Step8
Once the oil has set into the filter, then replace the filter into your car's air intake. Don't forget to reconnect the air sensor.
Source: http://www.ehow.com/video_2039804_clean-cars-air-filter.html
Sunday, March 22, 2009
SImple DIY Jobs and MOT Checks
Less mechanically minded drivers can freeze up at the prospect of popping the bonnet, but having even a basic grasp of what lies beneath can save you shelling out for simple fixes.
Here’s our guide to some easy DIY jobs and pre-MoT checks.
• Check all fluids once a month, or before long journeys, and top up as required. Always make sure the car is parked on a level surface. Use the dipstick to check the oil level, and monitor coolant, windscreen-washer fluid and brake-fluid levels by checking them against the markers on the side of their respective reservoirs. Hydraulic power-steering systems and automatic gearboxes may also need periodic fluid checks. Dashboard warning lights often alert you when levels drop too low, but you shouldn’t wait until this happens.
• Check the condition and pressure of your tyres, from cold, at least once a month. Keep them inflated to the pressure recommended in the owner’s handbook to keep the car safe and save on fuel bills. Don’t forget to check the spare. Use a tread-depth gauge to make sure all tyres exceed the legal minimum depth of 1.6mm across 75% of the width of the tyre. It’s best to replace tyres when they reach 2mm.
To avoid wasting money on a failed MoT test, check the following items beforehand. Even if you’re not able to fix problems yourself, identifying them early can limit repair bills.
• Check the windscreen for chips and cracks.
• Check the horn, wipers and washers work properly.
• Make sure door mirrors aren’t broken.
• Check all the seatbelt buckles work.
• Ask a friend to help you check all exterior lights work correctly. Replace any blown bulbs and watch for broken lenses.
• Make sure the handbrake will hold the car on a hill.
Here’s our guide to some easy DIY jobs and pre-MoT checks.
• Check all fluids once a month, or before long journeys, and top up as required. Always make sure the car is parked on a level surface. Use the dipstick to check the oil level, and monitor coolant, windscreen-washer fluid and brake-fluid levels by checking them against the markers on the side of their respective reservoirs. Hydraulic power-steering systems and automatic gearboxes may also need periodic fluid checks. Dashboard warning lights often alert you when levels drop too low, but you shouldn’t wait until this happens.
• Check the condition and pressure of your tyres, from cold, at least once a month. Keep them inflated to the pressure recommended in the owner’s handbook to keep the car safe and save on fuel bills. Don’t forget to check the spare. Use a tread-depth gauge to make sure all tyres exceed the legal minimum depth of 1.6mm across 75% of the width of the tyre. It’s best to replace tyres when they reach 2mm.
To avoid wasting money on a failed MoT test, check the following items beforehand. Even if you’re not able to fix problems yourself, identifying them early can limit repair bills.
• Check the windscreen for chips and cracks.
• Check the horn, wipers and washers work properly.
• Make sure door mirrors aren’t broken.
• Check all the seatbelt buckles work.
• Ask a friend to help you check all exterior lights work correctly. Replace any blown bulbs and watch for broken lenses.
• Make sure the handbrake will hold the car on a hill.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
How to Get Rid of Paint Scratches
Stylishness is a certainty with a coating of aptly colored paint. Cover any item with paint and that item's aesthetic value will be raised. However, paint has one glaring drawback. A few scratches on a painted surface can turn a nice paint job into a massive eyesore. Scratches can make any painted item look shabby, cheap and poorly maintained. You can say that an item without paint looks even better than an object with a badly scratched paint job. Clearly, you must do away with paint scratches as soon as possible.
Paint scratches come in various appearances. There are the normal scratches and scratch formations. Some scratch formations look like scattered cobwebs, while others look like ugly swirls. These scratches are much harder to remove than normal scratches since a scratch formation signals that the deeper layers of paint are cracked. It's a good thing there are items on the market that are formulated to remove scratch formations such as scratch removers and specialized car waxes.
Solutions for Scratches
Paint scratches are tricky to remove, especially the deep ones. Faint scratches are usually taken care of by scrubbing the various scratch-removing solutions available on the market, while deeper ones require several procedures. Be sure to remove scratches early because if scratches become too deep, your only course of action is a new paint job, which is pricey and time consuming. Here are some ready solutions to remove scratches:
* Wash and Wipe – When you take a bath, you can scrub off dirt trails and dirt deposits from your body. The same logic can be applied to removing scratches from your car or any other painted object. You can shower your scratched item with water and apply soap on the scratched portions. Once done, scrub the soapy areas with a chamois. Rinse the scratched item and wipe it with a microfiber towel. When the item is completely dry, you will notice that the item is missing a good number of faint scratches.
* Makeshift Concealers – If you find the washing and scrubbing of large scratched objects too taxing, you can instead conceal scratches with a handful of items that can act as cheap paint substitutes. A good scratch concealer is nail polish. Nail polish provides a tough coat and its built-in adhesive sticks to any surface, just like paint. As long as you have nail polish that bears the same color as the paint, you can use the cosmetic product to conceal minor scratches. Other good makeshift concealers are oil paint, acrylic paint, and spray paint.
* car wax Car Wax – Some car wax models are specially formulated to remove scratches. Not only do these car-polishing solutions give your car a fine sheen, they can also eliminate scratches from other metal items such as refrigerator doors or metal ornaments. Apply a generous amount of scratch-removing car wax on a scratched surface then scrub it with a chamois to remove most minor scratches. To maximize the effects of car wax, you can use it after washing the scratched item with soap and water.
* Scratch Remover – Scratch-removing solutions work just like a specialized car wax, only their formulations are much tougher on scratches. In general, scratch removers are gentle to most surfaces. They won't cause discoloration even if their active ingredients are abrasive to severe scratches. The application of scratch removers is also similar to car wax's, where the best results can be generated after washing the scratched item with soap and water.
* use sandpaper Sandpaper – For the most severe scratches, sandpaper may appear an unconventional solution. Severe scratches are usually lined with sharp grooves, which cannot be handled by scratch removers. The rough surface of sandpaper can steadily reduce the grooves and realign the outmost layer of the scratch to the surface's level. When a deep scratch has been reduced by sandpaper, you can simply hide the scratch with spray paint or any other makeshift concealer. By the way, sandpaper should only be used on severe and violent scratches. If you use it on minor scratches, the rough surface of sandpaper will rip through your paint job.
Scratch My Back and I'll Repaint Yours
Some scratch formations are simply too severe for any of the solutions listed above. Normally, groups of deep and violent scratches will not be erased by the best scratch removers, nor will they be remedied by sandpaper and makeshift concealers. You have to follow a specific procedure to get rid of these annoying lines on your car or any other painted property.
Materials Used:
* paint thinner
* cloth
* spray paint
* towel
* car shampoo
* water hose (if necessary)
* sandpaper (if necessary)
Collect Materials
The materials for this project are pretty easy to find. The spray paint, paint thinner and sandpaper can be purchased at any hardware center. The water hose can be bought in a gardening store. You can purchase the car shampoo with one quick visit to a car accessories store. As for the rest of the materials needed, you can surely find all of them in your home.
By the way, when you are purchasing spray paint, make sure that its color completely matches the color of the scratched material's paint. You would not want to remove portions of different-colored paint.
I am Carwash
Wash the scratched object with running water. If you are handling a large object such as a car, you can use a water hose to make the job a lot faster. When you are done, apply car shampoo on the scratched object until the shampoo lathers. The car shampoo will collect dirt and dust, which can hamper your repainting job. Rinse off the shampoo then wipe the object with a towel. Make sure that the object to be repainted is completely dry because water can lessen the potency of the paint thinner.
Scratched Paint is Like Dandruff
Apply a generous amount of paint thinner on a piece of cloth and scrub away at the heavily scratched areas. If the paint does not wear out, you can directly apply thinner on the scratched areas. Still, if the paint stays, you can substitute the cloth with sandpaper. Continue to scrub until you are able to remove the paint covering the scratched areas.
The Repaint Job
Now that you have practically removed the scratches, your next mission is to repaint the portions that you rubbed off with paint thinner. Get your can of spray paint and paint the discolored portions. When the paint dries, your formerly scratched object will look as good as a newly purchased item.
Final Thought
Paint scratches make stylish objects like cars look like less than what they are actually worth. Good thing you have several options at your disposal that can take care of those annoying lines. Just follow all the steps and procedures indicated in this guide and you will be able to handle any type of paint scratch.
Source:http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/
Paint scratches come in various appearances. There are the normal scratches and scratch formations. Some scratch formations look like scattered cobwebs, while others look like ugly swirls. These scratches are much harder to remove than normal scratches since a scratch formation signals that the deeper layers of paint are cracked. It's a good thing there are items on the market that are formulated to remove scratch formations such as scratch removers and specialized car waxes.
Solutions for Scratches
Paint scratches are tricky to remove, especially the deep ones. Faint scratches are usually taken care of by scrubbing the various scratch-removing solutions available on the market, while deeper ones require several procedures. Be sure to remove scratches early because if scratches become too deep, your only course of action is a new paint job, which is pricey and time consuming. Here are some ready solutions to remove scratches:
* Wash and Wipe – When you take a bath, you can scrub off dirt trails and dirt deposits from your body. The same logic can be applied to removing scratches from your car or any other painted object. You can shower your scratched item with water and apply soap on the scratched portions. Once done, scrub the soapy areas with a chamois. Rinse the scratched item and wipe it with a microfiber towel. When the item is completely dry, you will notice that the item is missing a good number of faint scratches.
* Makeshift Concealers – If you find the washing and scrubbing of large scratched objects too taxing, you can instead conceal scratches with a handful of items that can act as cheap paint substitutes. A good scratch concealer is nail polish. Nail polish provides a tough coat and its built-in adhesive sticks to any surface, just like paint. As long as you have nail polish that bears the same color as the paint, you can use the cosmetic product to conceal minor scratches. Other good makeshift concealers are oil paint, acrylic paint, and spray paint.
* car wax Car Wax – Some car wax models are specially formulated to remove scratches. Not only do these car-polishing solutions give your car a fine sheen, they can also eliminate scratches from other metal items such as refrigerator doors or metal ornaments. Apply a generous amount of scratch-removing car wax on a scratched surface then scrub it with a chamois to remove most minor scratches. To maximize the effects of car wax, you can use it after washing the scratched item with soap and water.
* Scratch Remover – Scratch-removing solutions work just like a specialized car wax, only their formulations are much tougher on scratches. In general, scratch removers are gentle to most surfaces. They won't cause discoloration even if their active ingredients are abrasive to severe scratches. The application of scratch removers is also similar to car wax's, where the best results can be generated after washing the scratched item with soap and water.
* use sandpaper Sandpaper – For the most severe scratches, sandpaper may appear an unconventional solution. Severe scratches are usually lined with sharp grooves, which cannot be handled by scratch removers. The rough surface of sandpaper can steadily reduce the grooves and realign the outmost layer of the scratch to the surface's level. When a deep scratch has been reduced by sandpaper, you can simply hide the scratch with spray paint or any other makeshift concealer. By the way, sandpaper should only be used on severe and violent scratches. If you use it on minor scratches, the rough surface of sandpaper will rip through your paint job.
Scratch My Back and I'll Repaint Yours
Some scratch formations are simply too severe for any of the solutions listed above. Normally, groups of deep and violent scratches will not be erased by the best scratch removers, nor will they be remedied by sandpaper and makeshift concealers. You have to follow a specific procedure to get rid of these annoying lines on your car or any other painted property.
Materials Used:
* paint thinner
* cloth
* spray paint
* towel
* car shampoo
* water hose (if necessary)
* sandpaper (if necessary)
Collect Materials
The materials for this project are pretty easy to find. The spray paint, paint thinner and sandpaper can be purchased at any hardware center. The water hose can be bought in a gardening store. You can purchase the car shampoo with one quick visit to a car accessories store. As for the rest of the materials needed, you can surely find all of them in your home.
By the way, when you are purchasing spray paint, make sure that its color completely matches the color of the scratched material's paint. You would not want to remove portions of different-colored paint.
I am Carwash
Wash the scratched object with running water. If you are handling a large object such as a car, you can use a water hose to make the job a lot faster. When you are done, apply car shampoo on the scratched object until the shampoo lathers. The car shampoo will collect dirt and dust, which can hamper your repainting job. Rinse off the shampoo then wipe the object with a towel. Make sure that the object to be repainted is completely dry because water can lessen the potency of the paint thinner.
Scratched Paint is Like Dandruff
Apply a generous amount of paint thinner on a piece of cloth and scrub away at the heavily scratched areas. If the paint does not wear out, you can directly apply thinner on the scratched areas. Still, if the paint stays, you can substitute the cloth with sandpaper. Continue to scrub until you are able to remove the paint covering the scratched areas.
The Repaint Job
Now that you have practically removed the scratches, your next mission is to repaint the portions that you rubbed off with paint thinner. Get your can of spray paint and paint the discolored portions. When the paint dries, your formerly scratched object will look as good as a newly purchased item.
Final Thought
Paint scratches make stylish objects like cars look like less than what they are actually worth. Good thing you have several options at your disposal that can take care of those annoying lines. Just follow all the steps and procedures indicated in this guide and you will be able to handle any type of paint scratch.
Source:http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com/
Thursday, February 19, 2009
LPG (Autogas) fuel conversions
As much as I'd love to drive a hybrid, pure electric or biodiesel powered vehicle, I'm stuck with petrol (gas) vehicles for the time being. It's something that really bugged me; not only the environmental aspects, but the amount of blood that's been spilled over black gold.
Personally, I'm all for going back to the horse and cart, walking or biking. I do little (none) of the latter, purely because as far as I'm concerned, cars and bikes on the same bit of tar do not mix :).
Up until recently, I had glossed over the possibility of converting the car to LPG . LPG stands for Liquefied Petroleum Gas - a mixture of butane and propane. LPG is produced during crude oil refinement, or is extracted from oil or natural gas seams. It's often referred to as autogas in other countries
A conversion seemed pretty costly and I've never owned vehicles I've kept for long enough to recoup the cost. I also wasn't aware of any environmental benefits of LPG.
The Australian Government recently announced a subsidy for LPG conversions, so I took another look at the option, and was very pleasantly surprised. Not only is LPG around half the price of petrol currently, but it also generates 15% less carbon dioxide and 20% less other harmful gases when combusted. LPG is particularly efficient in comparison to petrol in relation to cold engines - which is the situation when taking shorter journeys or even when you're embarking on a longer journey.
LPG also evaporates quickly if spilled, so there's no risk of earth/water contamination. LPG engines are also quieter, so less noise pollution.
Yes, it's a fossil fuel and yes it's not a *real* green, earth-friendly solution, but if I can cut back on what my vehicle spews into the atmosphere; I guess it's better than taking no action at all. Let's call it a small step among many.
Source: Green Living Tips
Personally, I'm all for going back to the horse and cart, walking or biking. I do little (none) of the latter, purely because as far as I'm concerned, cars and bikes on the same bit of tar do not mix :).
Up until recently, I had glossed over the possibility of converting the car to LPG . LPG stands for Liquefied Petroleum Gas - a mixture of butane and propane. LPG is produced during crude oil refinement, or is extracted from oil or natural gas seams. It's often referred to as autogas in other countries
A conversion seemed pretty costly and I've never owned vehicles I've kept for long enough to recoup the cost. I also wasn't aware of any environmental benefits of LPG.
The Australian Government recently announced a subsidy for LPG conversions, so I took another look at the option, and was very pleasantly surprised. Not only is LPG around half the price of petrol currently, but it also generates 15% less carbon dioxide and 20% less other harmful gases when combusted. LPG is particularly efficient in comparison to petrol in relation to cold engines - which is the situation when taking shorter journeys or even when you're embarking on a longer journey.
LPG also evaporates quickly if spilled, so there's no risk of earth/water contamination. LPG engines are also quieter, so less noise pollution.
Yes, it's a fossil fuel and yes it's not a *real* green, earth-friendly solution, but if I can cut back on what my vehicle spews into the atmosphere; I guess it's better than taking no action at all. Let's call it a small step among many.
Source: Green Living Tips
Friday, February 6, 2009
2010 Ford Fusion
The Bottom Line
A redesigned, reworked hybrid that proves Ford can play hardball when they want to.
Pros
- Drivetrain tech improvements make for best-in-class mpg numbers—over 6 mpg better than Camry Hybrid
- Neat new EcoGauge panel is both powerful and customizable
- Refreshed styling makes an already good looking car even better looking
Cons
- Engine-on transitions have been improved, but still could be smoother
- Suspension damping doesn’t handle some road irregularities well
- Given current events, buying domestic might be a leap of faith for some
Description
- MSRP: $27,270 (plus $725 destination/delivery charge)
- Fuel Economy: 39 mpg city, 37 mpg highway
- Layout: Front-wheel drive
- Seating: Five passenger
- Engine: Duratec 2.5 liter 16-valve Atkinson cycle I-4
- Battery: Nickel-Metal Hydride producing a nominal 275 volts
- Electric motor: Permanent magnet AC synchronous
Transmission: Electronically controlled continuously variable - Fuel capacity: 17.5 gallons
Estimated cruising range: 700 miles + - Recommended fuel: 87 octane
Base curb weight: 3,720 lbs - Emission rating: Advanced Technology Partial Zero Emission Vehicle (AT-PZEV)
Guide Review - 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid test drive
Pop Quiz: Let’s say you’re hot for a new midsize hybrid sedan… who ya gonna call? Conventional wisdom may send you to a Toyota dealership, but Ford’s 2010 Fusion has improved by leaps and bounds in an attempt to re-program the buying instincts of American car consumers.
To battle the mighty Toyota, Fusion Hybrid gets a load of serious improvements, the bulk of which lie within its drivetrain, deep beneath its refreshed skin. For starters, the NiMH battery is smaller and more powerful, the engine on/off switch operates 50% more often, and electric-only propulsion can be sustained up to 47 mph. A 2.5-liter Atkinson four-cylinder produces 155 of the total 191 horsepower, and EPA numbers are an impressive 39 mpg city/37 mpg highway.
But engine tech aside, driving’s the ultimate test, and after a day’s worth of seat time I’m here to tell you the Fusion Hybrid should put Toyota on alert. The new SmartGauge EcoGuide features four degrees of drivetrain info, including accessories load and an indication of how much throttle you can apply before the gas engine kicks in. For the visually inclined, a growing vine and leaf graphic encourages more fuel efficient driving—cool!
There’s still a bit of a vibration when the engine kicks in, but that transition (as well as brake feel) are noticeably improved. The ride is generally smooth, though some larger bumps aren’t absorbed so well by the suspension. But these are minor points compared to the Fusion Hybrid’s larger accomplishments: a comfortable and quiet cabin, an informative display that encourages responsible driving, and refinements that pull some impressive fuel economy numbers from the powertrain. Ford may be in hot water because they’re having trouble selling cars, but if the rest of their lineup gets as good as their Fusion Hybrid, there may be a bold new future for the Blue Oval.
Source: http://alternativefuels.about.com/od/2010hybridreviews/gr/2010FordFusion.htm
Friday, January 23, 2009
11 Car-Care Tips that Save Gas
Fill up with a lower-octane gasoline. Buy the lowest grade or octane of gasoline that is appropriate for your car. Unless your car requires premium gasoline, filling up your car with high-octane fuel is a waste of money. That pricey premium fuel won't boost your car's fuel economy or performance in the least, so skip it.
If you're not sure what grade of fuel works best for your car, open up your owner's manual and take a look. As long as your engine doesn't knock or ping when you fuel up with regular unleaded, you're good to drive on this much cheaper gas. Passing on pricey premium gasoline could save you hundreds of dollars a year.
Don't top off. Don't bother topping off when filling your car's gas tank. Any additional gas is just going to slop around or seep out. Why waste your money paying for gas your car won't use? Stop pumping at the first indication that your tank is full when the automatic nozzle clicks off.
Tighten up that gas cap. Gas will evaporate from your car's gas tank if it has an escape. Loose, missing or damaged gas caps cause 147 million gallons of gas to evaporate each year, according to the Car Care Council. So be sure to tighten up that gas cap each time you fuel up your car.
Go for the shade. The hot summer sun that makes the inside of your car feel like a sauna also zaps fuel from your gas tank.
"If you let your car bake in the sun there's going to be a greater amount of evaporative emissions that take place than if you park in the shade," says Jim Kliesch, research associate at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy and vehicle analyst for GreenerCars.com.
So park your car in the shade of a building or tree whenever possible. And buy a good windshield shade. A windshield shade blocks sunlight and helps to keep heat out of the inside of your car.
Use your garage for your car. Got a garage? Clear it out and make room for your car. Parking in your garage will help your car stay warm in winter and cool in summer, and you won't have to depend as much on your gas-guzzling air-conditioning or defroster when you drive.
Pump up your tires. Don't get caught driving on underinflated tires. Underinflated tires wear down more quickly and they also lower your car's gas mileage.
"Tires that have low pressure offer more resistance so the engine is going to work harder to keep the car at 60," says Brian Moody, road test editor at Edmunds.com.
Your car's gas mileage may plummet by as much as 15 percent. Driving on underinflated tires may also reduce the life of your tires by 15 percent or more.
Check your tire pressure once a month. Buy a digital gauge and keep it in your glove box. Compare the pressure in your tires with the recommended pressure listed in your owner's manual and on the placard in your car door. Then inflate your tires as needed. Be sure to check tire pressure when your tires are cold. A good time is early in the morning after your car's been idle overnight.
Keep your engine in tune. Fixing a car that is out of tune or has failed an emissions test can boost gas mileage by about 4 percent. So be sure to give your car regular tune-ups. You'll also want to watch out for worn spark plugs. A misfiring spark plug can reduce a car's fuel efficiency by as much as 30 percent.
Replace air filters. Keep a close eye on your engine's air filter. When the engine air filter clogs with dirt, dust and bugs, it causes your engine to work harder and your car becomes less fuel-efficient. Replacing a clogged air filter could improve your gas mileage by as much as 10 percent and save you 15 cents a gallon. It's a good idea to have your engine air filter checked at each oil change. The Car Care Council recommends changing your car's air and oil filters every three months or 3,000 miles or as specified in your owner's manual.
Use the right oil. You can improve your car's gas mileage by 1 percent to 2 percent by using the manufacturer's recommended grade of motor oil. Opt for motor oil with the words "energy conserving" on the API performance label. This oil contains friction-reducing additives.
Don't skimp on maintenance. Be serious about auto care. Your car's performance depends on it.
"Always follow the manufacturer-recommended maintenance," Moody says. "The car's designed to run a certain way. If you neglect it, it won't be as efficient."
Obey the car-care guidelines outlined in your owner's manual. For more auto-care guidelines check out this free maintenance schedule from the Car Care Council.
Source: http://www.bankrate.com/brm/news/auto/fuel-efficient/5.asp
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Is Biofuel still in this 2009?
I recently spent time with Saab’s bioethanol experts – and it got me thinking. Are they heading down a dead-end with their E85-fuelled vehicles? Or are they right to persist with biofuels, even if public perception swung dramatically in 2008?
They certainly don’t sell many in the UK. Since 2006, Saab Biopower cars make up less than half of one percent of sales here – but the UK is notoriously behind other markets with its acceptance of bioethanol cars.
Sweden: firm believers in biofuels
Back in the homeland, half the buses in Stockholm run on bioethanol – and a third of all new cars sold in Sweden every year run on the green stuff, including one in five Saabs. As ever with fuel debates, availability is a big issue: the UK has only 20 filling stations with bioethanol, compared with 60 in Ireland and 350 in France. Compare that with the 1050 in Sweden and you can see why it’s popular there.
Okay, so you can mix bioethanol with regular petrol, but then of course you’re turning your back on its green credentials. Saab argues that even if petrol stations in the UK aren’t supporting the use of bioefuels as much as they could or should, it’s still possible to run your car on petrol in the meantime and keep your options open for the future.
We already know from Ben Oliver’s report in the August 2008 issue of CAR magazine that ethanol is majorly supported in Brazil, where a quarter of cars run on biofuels. But can you imagine having the sugar plantations required in the UK and the resultant change required in the agricultural system? Supporters argue we already import much of our energy, so why is shipping in biofuels any different?
How do biofuels perform on the road?
I drove the latest Saab XWD/Aero running on biofuel and can confirm it in no way affects the performance of the car compared with regular UK models slurping unleaded. Could I detect the higher power outputs and combustion efficiency of Saab’s Biofuels engines? It’s touch and go.
Critics say that Saab is backing the Betamax of the fuel world, but I still admire the plucky Swedes for developing E85 cars. Who knows what could come from this in the future.
We all look to develop and advance ourselves for the better, so why not the environment we live in? Maybe this is a useful starting block for what is to come. IMO we should be looking at all options – whether they be electric, hybrid, plug-in or biofuel. And you know what? I prefer a car to sound and feel like a car, and that’s why I still struggle with the milkfloat connotations of electric cars.
Would I buy a biofuel car? Not at a premium – too many uncertainties remain. But I still believe they’re right to develop the technology. None of us should put all our eggs in one basket…
Source: http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/
They certainly don’t sell many in the UK. Since 2006, Saab Biopower cars make up less than half of one percent of sales here – but the UK is notoriously behind other markets with its acceptance of bioethanol cars.
Sweden: firm believers in biofuels
Back in the homeland, half the buses in Stockholm run on bioethanol – and a third of all new cars sold in Sweden every year run on the green stuff, including one in five Saabs. As ever with fuel debates, availability is a big issue: the UK has only 20 filling stations with bioethanol, compared with 60 in Ireland and 350 in France. Compare that with the 1050 in Sweden and you can see why it’s popular there.
Okay, so you can mix bioethanol with regular petrol, but then of course you’re turning your back on its green credentials. Saab argues that even if petrol stations in the UK aren’t supporting the use of bioefuels as much as they could or should, it’s still possible to run your car on petrol in the meantime and keep your options open for the future.
We already know from Ben Oliver’s report in the August 2008 issue of CAR magazine that ethanol is majorly supported in Brazil, where a quarter of cars run on biofuels. But can you imagine having the sugar plantations required in the UK and the resultant change required in the agricultural system? Supporters argue we already import much of our energy, so why is shipping in biofuels any different?
How do biofuels perform on the road?
I drove the latest Saab XWD/Aero running on biofuel and can confirm it in no way affects the performance of the car compared with regular UK models slurping unleaded. Could I detect the higher power outputs and combustion efficiency of Saab’s Biofuels engines? It’s touch and go.
Critics say that Saab is backing the Betamax of the fuel world, but I still admire the plucky Swedes for developing E85 cars. Who knows what could come from this in the future.
We all look to develop and advance ourselves for the better, so why not the environment we live in? Maybe this is a useful starting block for what is to come. IMO we should be looking at all options – whether they be electric, hybrid, plug-in or biofuel. And you know what? I prefer a car to sound and feel like a car, and that’s why I still struggle with the milkfloat connotations of electric cars.
Would I buy a biofuel car? Not at a premium – too many uncertainties remain. But I still believe they’re right to develop the technology. None of us should put all our eggs in one basket…
Source: http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/
Thursday, December 25, 2008
74 Cardinal Tips to Keep your Car in Great Condition
Operating Your Car
We've compiled our best expert advice, surprising tricks, and maintenance and fix-it tips to prolong the life of your car!
1. Be patient during the break-in period
You've bought your dream car and now you want to make it last at long as possible in top condition. Here are some things to remember as you pull it out of the dealer's lot:
During the break-in period, typically the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km), keep your speed under 55 mph (88 kpm) or to the speed recommended by your car's manufacturer.
Avoid heavy loads on the drive train, such as towing trailers, and loading the roof rack or trunk with heavy construction materials.
Do not allow your new car to idle for long periods -- this is good advice for the life of your car, but especially during breakin. The oil pressure generated by doing so may not be sending oil to every part of your engine.
Use only light to medium acceleration, keeping the engine rpms below 3,000 for the first few hours of driving.
2. Drive with care everyday
Being car considerate shouldn't stop after the break-in. Drive with care every day and your car will reward you with longer intervals without repair.Do not race your car's engine during start-up.This is a quick way to add years of wear to your engine, especially if it's cold outside.
Accelerate slowly when you begin your drive.The most wear to the engine and drive train occurs in the first ten to twenty minutes of operation.
Warming the engine by letting it idle in the driveway is not a smart idea.The engine doesn't operate at its peak temperature, resulting in incomplete fuel combustion, soot deposits on cylinder walls, oil contamination, and ultimately damaged components.
Put less strain on your engine and automatic transmission by shifting to neutral at red lights. Otherwise, the engine is still working to push the car even while it's stopped.
Avoid driving at high speeds and accelerating quickly, especially when it's very hot or very cold outside. Such driving behavior will result in more frequent repairs.
Extend the life of your tires with careful driving. Observe posted speed limits. Avoid fast starts, stops, and turns. Avoid potholes and objects on the road. Don't run over curbs or hit the tire against the curb when parking. And, of course, don't burn rubber.
When turning your steering wheel, don't hold it in an extreme right or left position for more than a few seconds. Doing so can damage the power-steering pump.
Consolidate your short driving trips. Most of the wear and tear -- as well as the pollution your car generates -- takes place in the first few minutes of driving. Doing several errands at once, during low traffic hours if possible, will keep your engine happier longer.
3. Buy gas at reputable service stations
Ask whether the gas you buy is filtered at the pump and if the station has a policy about changing the pump filters regularly. If you get a song and dance, find another gas station. Some stations don't have pump filters, making you more vulnerable to dirty gasoline. Other stations may not mix alcohol and fuel properly -- or worse, water down their product. Find a station you trust and stick to it.
4. Don't fill up if you see the tanker
If you happen to see a gasoline tanker filling the tanks at your local gas station, come back another day or go to a different station. As the station's underground tanks are being filled, the turbulence can stir up sediment. Sediment in your gas can clog fuel filters and fuel injectors, causing poor performance and possibly necessitating repairs.
5. Go easy when you're stuck
When stuck in mud or snow, don't make the problem worse by damaging an expensive component. Gently rocking in an attempt to free the car is fine. But if it looks as though you're really stuck, don't keep at it. Throwing your car from forward to reverse repeatedly, as well as spinning tires at high speeds, can generate lots of heat and spell trouble for transmissions, clutches, and differentials. It may be cheaper in the long run to call the tow truck rather than risk big repair bills down the road. It's a good idea to carry a traction aid in the trunk, such as sand, gravel, or cat litter.
6. Lighten up your key chain
Does your car key share a chain with a dozen or more other keys? That's a pretty heavy load hanging off the car key when it's in the ignition.The weight, combined with bouncing while you drive, can wear out the tumblers inside the ignition and eventually lead to ignition switch failure.To add years of service to your ignition switch, purchase a lightweight key chain that allows you to separate your ignition key from the others. Drive with only the ignition key in your ignition. If your ignition key "sticks" when you try to turn on the car, it's a warning that your ignition switch is about to fail. Replace it before you get stranded.
7. Choose a good car insurer
Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, disaster inevitably strikes -- typically in the form of an accident. Make sure that your car will be repaired to the best possible standard by finding an insurer that will pay for parts from the original manufacturer and guarantee the repairs it authorizes.
8. Keep an auto log
Keep a pad and pencil in the glove compartment and use them to record your gas fill-ups and mileage. If you notice that your gas mileage worsens, mention it to your service man. It may be an early warning sign that something is wrong with your car.
9. Preserve your car during long-term storage
If you are not going to use your car for more than a month, store it properly to prevent unnecessary damage and repairs upon your return.
Read the rest of the tips here.
1. Be patient during the break-in period
You've bought your dream car and now you want to make it last at long as possible in top condition. Here are some things to remember as you pull it out of the dealer's lot:
2. Drive with care everyday
Being car considerate shouldn't stop after the break-in. Drive with care every day and your car will reward you with longer intervals without repair.
3. Buy gas at reputable service stations
Ask whether the gas you buy is filtered at the pump and if the station has a policy about changing the pump filters regularly. If you get a song and dance, find another gas station. Some stations don't have pump filters, making you more vulnerable to dirty gasoline. Other stations may not mix alcohol and fuel properly -- or worse, water down their product. Find a station you trust and stick to it.
4. Don't fill up if you see the tanker
If you happen to see a gasoline tanker filling the tanks at your local gas station, come back another day or go to a different station. As the station's underground tanks are being filled, the turbulence can stir up sediment. Sediment in your gas can clog fuel filters and fuel injectors, causing poor performance and possibly necessitating repairs.
5. Go easy when you're stuck
When stuck in mud or snow, don't make the problem worse by damaging an expensive component. Gently rocking in an attempt to free the car is fine. But if it looks as though you're really stuck, don't keep at it. Throwing your car from forward to reverse repeatedly, as well as spinning tires at high speeds, can generate lots of heat and spell trouble for transmissions, clutches, and differentials. It may be cheaper in the long run to call the tow truck rather than risk big repair bills down the road. It's a good idea to carry a traction aid in the trunk, such as sand, gravel, or cat litter.
6. Lighten up your key chain
Does your car key share a chain with a dozen or more other keys? That's a pretty heavy load hanging off the car key when it's in the ignition.The weight, combined with bouncing while you drive, can wear out the tumblers inside the ignition and eventually lead to ignition switch failure.To add years of service to your ignition switch, purchase a lightweight key chain that allows you to separate your ignition key from the others. Drive with only the ignition key in your ignition. If your ignition key "sticks" when you try to turn on the car, it's a warning that your ignition switch is about to fail. Replace it before you get stranded.
7. Choose a good car insurer
Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, disaster inevitably strikes -- typically in the form of an accident. Make sure that your car will be repaired to the best possible standard by finding an insurer that will pay for parts from the original manufacturer and guarantee the repairs it authorizes.
8. Keep an auto log
Keep a pad and pencil in the glove compartment and use them to record your gas fill-ups and mileage. If you notice that your gas mileage worsens, mention it to your service man. It may be an early warning sign that something is wrong with your car.
9. Preserve your car during long-term storage
If you are not going to use your car for more than a month, store it properly to prevent unnecessary damage and repairs upon your return.
- Fill the gas tank to help prevent condensation from accumulating in the gas tank. Add a fuel stabilizer and drive the car around a bit to distribute the additive to engine parts.
- Wash and wax the car thoroughly to protect the finish.
- Place a vapor barrier on your garage floor. A 4-mil polyethylene drop cloth will do.
- Disengage the parking brake to help avoid brake corrosion.
- Put the car on jack stands to take the weight of the vehicle off the wheels and tires.
- Disconnect and remove the battery to keep it from draining. Place the battery on a trickletype charger. Or periodically drain the battery, using a small light bulb, and then recharge it with a low-volt charger.
- Plug the tailpipe with a rag to prevent moist air from infiltrating into it.
Car Interior
10. Park in the shade
Of course, a garage is always the ideal place to park your car. But if one isn't available, minimize interior damage from UV sunlight and heat by always trying to park your car in the shade. If no shade is available or if you find parking under a tree results in bird droppings, use a car shade to minimize the sun's impact. As a bonus, you'll have a cooler car to step into on hot sunny days. Car shades come in two basic types: those that you unfold and place on the front windshield and rear window, or pleated types that attach to the windshield posts (with adhesive), window frames (with Velcro), or the windows themselves (with suction cups).
11. Clean the inside, too
Vacuum and sponge your interior every time you wash your car. Dirt particles are abrasive, and spilled liquids, such as soda, can be corrosive.Vacuum your interior thoroughly with a powerful vacuum (small cordless models are generally too weak). Use the appropriate wand heads when vacuuming. The bare metal wand can mar and scratch surfaces. Sponge vinyl surfaces clean with a solution of mild detergent and water.
12. Clean dash gauges carefully
Use a soft damp cloth to lightly wipe dust from the clear plastic lenses on your dashboard. Too much pressure will scratch them. Too many scratches can make it difficult to read your gauges under certain lighting conditions.
13. Let floor mats take winter's beating
Use floor mats to protect carpeting. The best type for controlling salt, slush, and mud in winter are rubber wafflestyle mats. They stay in place, don't allow the water to seep through, and are easy to wash clean. Carpet-style mats are helpful, too. Shake, vacuum, or wash as needed; replace them as they wear through.
14. Blast mats with the hose
When washing your car, drag out the rubber or carpet floor mats and blast them with the hose.This will dislodge dirt particles that, if allowed to build up, will grind holes in your mats. Let the mats dry thoroughly in the sun before reinstalling them.
15. For stubborn carpet or mat stains
After vacuuming floor mats or interior carpeting, apply foam rug cleaner to resistant stains as directed by the maker. Work the foam into a few square feet at a time, using a wet sponge or brush. Vacuum when dry.
16. Preserve door and window seals
Wipe a rubber protectant (such as Armor-All) or silicone on door and window weatherstripping to keep it in good condition. Don't use an oilbased product, such as WD-40, because the oil will damage the rubber. Regular cleaning and treatment of your car's weatherstripping will also lessen the likelihood of your door sticking to its rubber seal in cold weather, a common cause of damage to the rubber.
17. Fix bad weatherstripping immediately
If your weatherstripping is letting rainwater leak into the interior of your car, take a look at it and decide if you can repair it or if it needs to be replaced. Small leaks can be handled with brush-on seam sealers. Resecure loose sections, not otherwise damaged, with trim adhesive. Torn sections may be repaired with special caulking available at auto parts stores. You may also be able to extend the life of worn-but-intact sections by inserting foam rods, available at automotive stores, into the hollow section of the weatherstripping. If you decide to replace entire sections of gasket, don't simply buy generic stuff such as you'd use around the house. Buy a product that matches your car's original weatherstripping -- it's available in a wide variety of profiles from dealerships and automotive mail-order catalogues.
18. Keep leather from drying out and cracking
Leather cars seats are durable and don't require a lot of maintenance. After a few years, however, the seats can become soiled. Use a leather cleaner to remove dirt and stains.Then apply a leather protectant formulated for pigmented or top-coated grain leather (the leather used for most leather car upholstery). Protectants will resist stains and make the upholstery easier to clean in the future. Choose a protectant that includes conditioners to keep your leather supple.
19. Use upholstery cleaners on soiled seats
The same upholstery cleaners you use at home can be used on your car's upholstery. Use them sparingly, however, to avoid saturating the fabric. Use a clean cloth to wipe away the foam. On velour seats, brush the fibers gently to avoid matting them and to preserve the original texture of the fabric.
20. Renew fabric upholstery
Spraying fabric car seats and carpets with a fabric protectant, such as Scotchgard, will make them resist dirt and stains, and make them easier to clean. Thoroughly clean the fabrics before using one of these products and then test the product on an inconspicuous place to be sure the treatment will not discolor the fabric.
21. Place a towel under baby seats
All manner of food bits and liquids can accumulate under a baby seat, where they can permanently stain the upholstery. Place a sheet of heavy plastic and an absorbent towel under the seat to prevent damage, and re-secure the seat according to the manufacturer's directions.
Of course, a garage is always the ideal place to park your car. But if one isn't available, minimize interior damage from UV sunlight and heat by always trying to park your car in the shade. If no shade is available or if you find parking under a tree results in bird droppings, use a car shade to minimize the sun's impact. As a bonus, you'll have a cooler car to step into on hot sunny days. Car shades come in two basic types: those that you unfold and place on the front windshield and rear window, or pleated types that attach to the windshield posts (with adhesive), window frames (with Velcro), or the windows themselves (with suction cups).
11. Clean the inside, too
Vacuum and sponge your interior every time you wash your car. Dirt particles are abrasive, and spilled liquids, such as soda, can be corrosive.Vacuum your interior thoroughly with a powerful vacuum (small cordless models are generally too weak). Use the appropriate wand heads when vacuuming. The bare metal wand can mar and scratch surfaces. Sponge vinyl surfaces clean with a solution of mild detergent and water.
12. Clean dash gauges carefully
Use a soft damp cloth to lightly wipe dust from the clear plastic lenses on your dashboard. Too much pressure will scratch them. Too many scratches can make it difficult to read your gauges under certain lighting conditions.
13. Let floor mats take winter's beating
Use floor mats to protect carpeting. The best type for controlling salt, slush, and mud in winter are rubber wafflestyle mats. They stay in place, don't allow the water to seep through, and are easy to wash clean. Carpet-style mats are helpful, too. Shake, vacuum, or wash as needed; replace them as they wear through.
14. Blast mats with the hose
When washing your car, drag out the rubber or carpet floor mats and blast them with the hose.This will dislodge dirt particles that, if allowed to build up, will grind holes in your mats. Let the mats dry thoroughly in the sun before reinstalling them.
15. For stubborn carpet or mat stains
After vacuuming floor mats or interior carpeting, apply foam rug cleaner to resistant stains as directed by the maker. Work the foam into a few square feet at a time, using a wet sponge or brush. Vacuum when dry.
16. Preserve door and window seals
Wipe a rubber protectant (such as Armor-All) or silicone on door and window weatherstripping to keep it in good condition. Don't use an oilbased product, such as WD-40, because the oil will damage the rubber. Regular cleaning and treatment of your car's weatherstripping will also lessen the likelihood of your door sticking to its rubber seal in cold weather, a common cause of damage to the rubber.
17. Fix bad weatherstripping immediately
If your weatherstripping is letting rainwater leak into the interior of your car, take a look at it and decide if you can repair it or if it needs to be replaced. Small leaks can be handled with brush-on seam sealers. Resecure loose sections, not otherwise damaged, with trim adhesive. Torn sections may be repaired with special caulking available at auto parts stores. You may also be able to extend the life of worn-but-intact sections by inserting foam rods, available at automotive stores, into the hollow section of the weatherstripping. If you decide to replace entire sections of gasket, don't simply buy generic stuff such as you'd use around the house. Buy a product that matches your car's original weatherstripping -- it's available in a wide variety of profiles from dealerships and automotive mail-order catalogues.
18. Keep leather from drying out and cracking
Leather cars seats are durable and don't require a lot of maintenance. After a few years, however, the seats can become soiled. Use a leather cleaner to remove dirt and stains.Then apply a leather protectant formulated for pigmented or top-coated grain leather (the leather used for most leather car upholstery). Protectants will resist stains and make the upholstery easier to clean in the future. Choose a protectant that includes conditioners to keep your leather supple.
19. Use upholstery cleaners on soiled seats
The same upholstery cleaners you use at home can be used on your car's upholstery. Use them sparingly, however, to avoid saturating the fabric. Use a clean cloth to wipe away the foam. On velour seats, brush the fibers gently to avoid matting them and to preserve the original texture of the fabric.
20. Renew fabric upholstery
Spraying fabric car seats and carpets with a fabric protectant, such as Scotchgard, will make them resist dirt and stains, and make them easier to clean. Thoroughly clean the fabrics before using one of these products and then test the product on an inconspicuous place to be sure the treatment will not discolor the fabric.
21. Place a towel under baby seats
All manner of food bits and liquids can accumulate under a baby seat, where they can permanently stain the upholstery. Place a sheet of heavy plastic and an absorbent towel under the seat to prevent damage, and re-secure the seat according to the manufacturer's directions.
Read the rest of the tips here.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Tips on Driving a Car Bargain
You can buy some time and money, not to mention, be free from headache, when you are about to make your second largest purchase you will ever make after a home. All you have to be is be street-smart though not really a whacko. How to be that? Just stick to these tips:
1. Allow yourself to linger on each shopping option. This is an important decision, and it entails careful thinking.
2. Shop toward the end of the calendar year. Since most shoppers are busy on completing their Christmas shopping, you might end up with a better bargain for cars. You can also get a good buy during late summer or early fall, when most car owners sell off their cars for the next year's.
3. Make sure that the car you dream of is the car that you truly need. Make sure that you can pay off the car totally; make it a point to match your loan term to the time you expect to own the vehicle.
4. Don't forget to test-drive and do a thorough inspection of the car, to really know the car you're buying.
5. Lastly, the Internet can be the most helpful tool you need in your research for cars.
One major point to consider for you to make a major hit online?
Search for the truck, car, or SUV that you like then list it down; make a contrast of all the vehicles then make some sort of profile for the car you've chosen.
Do this and you'll be driving around in no time! Just don't do overspeeding.
1. Allow yourself to linger on each shopping option. This is an important decision, and it entails careful thinking.
2. Shop toward the end of the calendar year. Since most shoppers are busy on completing their Christmas shopping, you might end up with a better bargain for cars. You can also get a good buy during late summer or early fall, when most car owners sell off their cars for the next year's.
3. Make sure that the car you dream of is the car that you truly need. Make sure that you can pay off the car totally; make it a point to match your loan term to the time you expect to own the vehicle.
4. Don't forget to test-drive and do a thorough inspection of the car, to really know the car you're buying.
5. Lastly, the Internet can be the most helpful tool you need in your research for cars.
One major point to consider for you to make a major hit online?
Search for the truck, car, or SUV that you like then list it down; make a contrast of all the vehicles then make some sort of profile for the car you've chosen.
Do this and you'll be driving around in no time! Just don't do overspeeding.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Don’t Lease during “Rainy” Days
When your credit card stays unused for some time already and it’s just tempting to lease a car, knowing that you only have to give a low monthly payment and repairs are not one of your concerns already, the best thing to do is think harder.
Car leasing might sound a good car deal option for anyone buried neck deep in debts, especially with its growing popularity and the number of topnotch cars available for lease in the market. Think ahead of your financial situation; once you start leasing a car, at the end of the contract, you would have to lease another car or buy out your current leased car. This means you would be a slave to your car dealership for your monthly payments for another three to five years.
So if you have a hefty amount for savings, try to pay all your debt and instead settle for a used car. Car leasing is good for those who were able to save up for the rainy days and there’s still some coming in from another source. With this used car option, you can actually own the car and there won’t be down payments and monthly payments to haunt you for years. You can get good price packages for a used car also.
Otherwise, do look for other alternative ways of earning and look for a car lease deal that would suit your needs well.
Source: http://ezinearticles.com
Car leasing might sound a good car deal option for anyone buried neck deep in debts, especially with its growing popularity and the number of topnotch cars available for lease in the market. Think ahead of your financial situation; once you start leasing a car, at the end of the contract, you would have to lease another car or buy out your current leased car. This means you would be a slave to your car dealership for your monthly payments for another three to five years.
So if you have a hefty amount for savings, try to pay all your debt and instead settle for a used car. Car leasing is good for those who were able to save up for the rainy days and there’s still some coming in from another source. With this used car option, you can actually own the car and there won’t be down payments and monthly payments to haunt you for years. You can get good price packages for a used car also.
Otherwise, do look for other alternative ways of earning and look for a car lease deal that would suit your needs well.
Source: http://ezinearticles.com
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Tips in Buying the Right Used Car
Buying a used car requires more than just patience; it demands an excellent dose of wit to figure out the best used car you can have. To make things easier for you, we stumbled upon these tips for you to land on a reliable used car.
1) Find out the reason why the car is being sold. There are a couple of hints you need to be keen of. First, if the owner bought a newer model of the same car, then that means he likes the car and might be that he has other needs to take care of, hence more car features. This is given that the car owner is also of good reputation. If the owner, on the other hand, bought another model and hints on unreliability, then that means the car won’t be a good buy.
2) Ask for receipts of purchase of parts and for any repair or modification to find out what have been done to the car for sale. It’s not a good choice when the car has undergone a lot of modifications. It means that its makeup is not intended for hard use, except when there’s a greater purpose of use other than what the car can offer in its original makeup.
3) So how does the car look? Just make sure that the interior is clean and well maintained. No stains or worse holes on the car seats and the rubber mats are in place. No scratches anywhere in the interior. Try to check if there is overspray of paint on the outside then it might be caused by an accident. Also if there are considerable marks on the tire, that means it has been abused in acceleration, which is not good for the engine. A vehicle report can sometimes hide a couple of things about the car so it pays to be work around it.
4) Determine the market value of the car by doing research and car reviews. You can check on other dealerships for the price of the same model and relatively same condition with the car you want to buy.
With these tips, you can be sure of the right used car without having to pay more than what you deserve.
Source: http://www.leemyles.com
Monday, August 11, 2008
Top Ten Tips for Finding the Best Car Lease
1.Check for the car details.
The easiest way is to check the P11D price. The term is taken out from the form the tax man uses to record car details.
2.Check the payment system.
It's basic for whatever purchase you make. How much down payment you need to make and how many months left to pay the rent?
3. Check if the road fund licence is for the full term?
Full-time road fund licence should be included in the contract.
4. Ask if there is a delivery charge or what they call an administration charge.
5. Find out the name of the finance company behind the contract.
Your broker should tell you the complete details of the financing company as well as the contract and services they offer. If not, then he's bluffing.
6. Determine the coverage of maintenance.
Remember that it should cover all scheduled and remedial maintenance work, unlimited tires, batteries, and exhaust systems.
7. Figure out how mileage charges are calculated.
Some financing would use the two tier system: 5 per mile for the first 2,000 miles.
8. Verify how contract refurbishment costs are calculated.
9. A car's condition should be commensurate to the age and mileage. To make sure of the accurate measurements, refer to the BVRLA (British Vehicle Rental & Leasing association) guide.
10. Don't forget to ask the financing company these questions: How much leeway can you get to vary from your contract? And also if you're going to buy the car at lease end, how is the buy-out price calculated?
Source: http://www.avail.co.uk
The easiest way is to check the P11D price. The term is taken out from the form the tax man uses to record car details.
2.Check the payment system.
It's basic for whatever purchase you make. How much down payment you need to make and how many months left to pay the rent?
3. Check if the road fund licence is for the full term?
Full-time road fund licence should be included in the contract.
4. Ask if there is a delivery charge or what they call an administration charge.
5. Find out the name of the finance company behind the contract.
Your broker should tell you the complete details of the financing company as well as the contract and services they offer. If not, then he's bluffing.
6. Determine the coverage of maintenance.
Remember that it should cover all scheduled and remedial maintenance work, unlimited tires, batteries, and exhaust systems.
7. Figure out how mileage charges are calculated.
Some financing would use the two tier system: 5 per mile for the first 2,000 miles.
8. Verify how contract refurbishment costs are calculated.
9. A car's condition should be commensurate to the age and mileage. To make sure of the accurate measurements, refer to the BVRLA (British Vehicle Rental & Leasing association) guide.
10. Don't forget to ask the financing company these questions: How much leeway can you get to vary from your contract? And also if you're going to buy the car at lease end, how is the buy-out price calculated?
Source: http://www.avail.co.uk
Monday, August 4, 2008
So What Is a Baby-friendly Car?
To make sure what’s the best car for your newborn, or your soon-to-be kids, you need to follow six steps to ensure that you have a well-suited car for your teeny-weeny Junior.
Here are the six steps:
Check on the car seat of your brand-new car. It may be better to buy a new car seat and fit it yourself to the new car; this is to make sure that you know how to do it. 80% of cars in the United States are said to have improperly installed car seats. This usually is the cause of death or injury of babies straddled on cars. A correctly installed car seat doesn’t move an inch. Almost all of the new cars have the ISOFIX system or the LATCH system. To double-check on the installation of your car seat, you can bring your brand-new car seat and install it at the dealership; let them judge if you did the right thing. You can check on the rear and front-facing installation for your convertible. If you doubt on the exactness of the car seat’s installation, you can check it out with a free child seat inspection center.
To make things easier in picking out the right car seat, you can avail of the baby travel system; it’s a prepackaged set that includes a car seat, baby stroller, and a car seat base.
The second step concerns moving your baby in and out of the car. For cars that have detachable carriers, try putting on some weight on the carrier, about 15-20 lbs or 7-9 kg, and pull it out and put it in the car again in this some kind of role play for travelling with a baby. If your carrier is not detachable, try to put a life-size baby doll on it and pull it in and out.
Try to choose a car that would allow the stroller to fit in snugly and leave room also for grocery bags and other stuff you do when you get to buy stuff with your little kiddo along. But that is just not enough; you have to make sure also that even with your baby and the other stuffs are inside the car, you can still move them freely.
Check out the rear windows. Avoid cars with deeply sloping windshields since this will allow sunshine to stream down on the baby at the rear seat and might cause heatstroke and sunburns.
Next step is to get into the role playing part again. Try to hoist that diaper bag on your shoulder; and do the getting in and locking and getting out and unlocking of the car with the carrier or stroller with corresponding weights on it.
Another scenario to be considered is when an extra adult wants to sit beside the carrier or the stroller. Putting yourself in the shoes of that person, you need to put in the stroller or carrier with the corresponding weights and sit beside it. Try to feel if you’re comfortable in that arrangement.
Choose a car with enough space in front to stand over and reach out for the carrier or stroller at the back of the car.
Sources:
Monday, July 28, 2008
How to Choose the Best Car for You
With the millions of choices for that best car, it would take quite a long time for you to figure what it is. To lessen the hassles and seemingly unending time of negotiation and/or interrogation, we came up with these steps to follow:
Know what kind of car is it that you need.
The keyword here is need, not want. You better ask yourself what is your primary use of the car, how many people will usually ride on it, how long is the range of your driving, and in what terrain do you usually use it for.
You can ask these defining questions: Do I like automatic or manual transmission? A 4-wheel or 2-wheel car? What safety features do you want and what is its capacity?
How much is the car that you can afford?
It’s rule of thumb among veteran car buyers that 20% of your take-home pay should be the only amount that you can shed for your car. So calculate how much you can afford for a car before you do the shopping.
Should you buy or lease that car?
Of course, there are advantages and disadvantages for buying or leasing a car. If you are in for the latest model for a few years for a lesser pay, and no hassles when you want to sell or trade in your car, then leasing is for you. But if in case what you want is a car that you want to own for good with no mileage penalty then buying is for you.
How much would the car cost to own it?
There are four things you need to consider before you buy or lease a car: maintenance cost, fuel economy, insurance, and depreciation costs.
Research for options.
It’s not like you have to do the legwork and visit dozens of dealerships in your community; all you need to do is shop online and read, read, read. You will find that more informative that is. You can start by looking for good car sites.
Schedule your test drive.
Before you go to that dealership and ask for the key to test drive your car, you better give a call first just to make sure that the car in the exact model and color is available. Then it would help to build rapport with the salesperson involved in the negotiations.
After you test drive all the cars that you found viable for a buy, you come up with a top ten list of all the cars and decide from there.
It can be confusing to choose any thing that you want to purchase, especially if you have a budget to consider; so think before you buy.
Source: http://www.edmunds.com
Monday, July 21, 2008
Gearing Up for That Car Accident Culprit
You came from a soiree with some of your colleagues at work. Your half-drunk and half-driving, then wham! These pointers would help you out when you’re in that scenario:
Any driver or car owner should have the always-neglected first aid kit which should include flares, cones, or warning triangles, to aid you in case you’re in a remote area. It might help to have camera or a mobile with cam always to help you document the event and/or gather evidence of the accident.
Move your vehicle, any person involved in the accident, or any matter at that, that may cause further damage to the area or what might happen to be a traffic obstruction. Call for a tow truck if necessary.
Cooperate with any authorities but ask for your Miranda rights. Don’t divulge anything other than facts because it might incriminate you.
Document everything. Make a sketch of the accident scene and gather the specific info on the make, model, license plate of the car. Take pictures or videos of the accident scene.
Ask and get the license plate number, driver’s license number, name of driver and owner, address, contact info, insurance company, insurance policy numbers.
If there are witnesses, ask for their name, age, address, other contact details. Entrust them or their testimonies to the police and no one else.
Report all the pertinent information you gave to the police to your insurance company. You may include the evidence you had gathered.
No man in his right mind would like to have an accident, but it’s a must to be ready if it happens.
Source:
http://www.articlecity.com
Monday, July 14, 2008
What Does Your Car Insurance Cover?
Bodily Injury Liability- Your insurance covers the claims against you when you have an accident and somebody died or was injured.
Property Damage Liability- Your insurance covers the property damages you have incurred in a car accident. It’s a requirement for all states except three.
Medical Payments- Your insurance takes care of all charges when you are injured or any occupants of your car in an accident. This is optional in some states, and in others, medical payments is replaced by personal injury coverage.
Uninsured Motorist Protection- Gives you coverage when you or any occupants of your car are injured by an uninsured or hit-and-run drivers. You also have underinsurance coverage when you’re injured by any driver who has minimal insurance coverage.
Collision Coverage- Your insurance covers all damages to your car up to its book value. Collision coverage has a deductible. It’s the amount you have to pay per claim before the insurance takes effect. The lower the deductible, the higher the premium.
Comprehensive (Physical Damage)- It covers all damages you incur from nonaccident causes like vandalism, flood, theft, wind, hailstorms. Like the collision coverage, it also has a deductible.
Source: http://auto.howstuffworks.com
Monday, July 7, 2008
How to Give Your Car a New Look
Repainting your car takes a lot of cash from your pocket and a lot of time too. So before you decide to hand in your car to the nearest repair shop, it’s worth to consider a few tips first. The following are some pointers for evaluation to find out if your car is really worth the repairman’s time:
Even before you start shopping for a body paint and repair shop to help you with the repaint job, try to check first the level of repair needed for your car’s body. It might be that you can use some paints and other products for car finishing that can enhance the original color of your car. These products can help you for proper oxidation of your car and for removing light scratches and chalky feel. All you need is a can of primer, spray paint, sandpaper, and some car wax. You also need to have a discerning mind to know if you would have to do some patch-up work or a total body repaint for your car, and if you can do the patch-up by yourself or ask assistance from a repairman.
Another factor to consider whether to give it a custom or production repair is the length of time you will be using the car. Whether it is under lease and your contract is about to end or it would be a long time first before you can surrender your car to the dealership, try to figure out what costs more. Usually, car owners would resort to a repaint before returning the car to the dealership since it would cost much to be paying for the car’s residual value. Repaint is better for luxury cars but if your car is an old model and the scratch is not that visible then go for a patch-up job.
Source: http://www.automedia.com
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